Every year as spring approaches and the lilacs make their beautiful bloom, I always think of my mom. She loves both spring and lilacs, and always made Easter a special occasion in our home growing up. While the egg hunts and Easter baskets can't go unmentioned, naturally it was her Easter Feaster lunch spread that I remember most. We were never short on ham, stuffed artichokes, lamb butter (lamb-shaped butter, for clarification!) and some type of bread, like this Italian version of a sweet Easter bread.



I have always wanted to try making a braided bread because it’s egg-y and sweet and makes the best french toast the next morning. Most cultures have a version of this type of sweet braided bread which is commonly found around Easter, whether it’s Jewish challah, Greek tsoureki, or this Italian one, guti di pasqua. Each culture puts a little spin on their bread and traditionally Italian Easter bread has a hint of anise flavoring to it, which is similar in taste to black licorice. I decided to pass on that addition because it's not my favorite flavor and the bread tastes great without it.

I tried to channel my old Jewish grandmother or my Jewish best friend but it turns out both are imaginary so I wung winged it. I've been on spring break too long. It turns out that those years of timing myself braiding Beth’s hair for hours in the bathroom paid off, or at least I got the basic gist of it. Traditionally, dyed eggs are tucked between the braids of the bread and I think I read somewhere once that the different colors of the eggs represent the resurrection of Christ. In lieu of the eggs I decided to instead just dust the top with some colored sprinkles, which is another traditional Italian garnish.

While waiting for the bread to rise I watched the Ten Commandments on TV, an old and nearly 5 hour long film about Moses, that we watched every year as kids. I don't think I've ever sat through the whole thing but I got close last night. It was a bittersweet feeling, wishing my family was here so I could imitate Ramses booming "So it is written, so it shall be done!" but I know there will be plenty of more Easters to fit in everything I love with the people I love, too. Among all the change that is growing up, and moving, there are some things that I hope I will always remember. I know the table may be different but it's comforting to know that Mom's recipes never will be, and will always have a way of bringing us home.

Italian Easter Bread
Yields 1 loaf

Working with yeast has been a trying process over the years for me. It is either dead to begin with, or I unintentionally sent it to the grave by proofing it in milk that was too hot. That being said, if your yeast doesn't foam a noticeable amount after 5 minutes I would probably pitch it and start over as a precaution.

Ingredients
2/3 cup whole milk
5 Tablespoons sugar, divided
1 3/4 teaspoons active dry yeast (from one 1/4-ounce envelope)
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, room temperature, plus 1/2 tablespoon, melted
1 large eggs, for egg wash



Directions:

Heat milk in a small saucepan over medium heat or in a microwave until an instant-read thermometer registers 110–115 degrees F. Literally.



Transfer milk to a 2-cup measuring cup; stir in 1 Tbsp. sugar. Sprinkle yeast over milk and whisk to blend. Let sit until yeast is foamy, about 5 minutes. Add eggs; whisk until smooth. Try not to drop one of those room temperature eggs on the floor, like yours truly did. If you do, you're welcome to stick a cold egg in your sweater pouch and warm it up like a momma bird for a bit.



Combine remaining 4 Tbsp. sugar, flour, and salt in a large bowl. Add milk mixture. Because I don't have a large stand mixer with a dough hook, I opted to use the dough hook attachments for my hand mixer. If you're also without these, the mixing can easily be done by hand and a good work out at that.



With mixer running, add 1/2 cup room-temperature butter, 1 piece at a time, blending well between additions. Mix on medium speed for 1 minute. Knead on medium-high speed until dough is soft and silky, about 5 minutes.

Brush a medium bowl with some melted butter; place dough in bowl. Brush top of dough with remaining melted butter; cover with plastic wrap. At this point it can be made 1 day ahead, just cover with plastic wrap and chill in the fridge.

Let dough rise in a warm, draft-free area until doubled in size, 1–1 1/2 hours (or 2–2 1/2 hours if dough has been refrigerated). After losing so much yeasted dough, I found a method for created the perfect warm, rising spot. Place covered dough in a turned-off oven and place a cake pan on the rack below. Fill the pan with boiling water and shut the oven door; the steam from the water creates a great warm and humid environment that the yeast needs to rise.



Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Punch down dough. Divide into 3 equal pieces. With lightly floured hands, roll each piece on a lightly floured surface into a 16-inch-long rope with tapered ends. (If dough begins to bounce back, cover with a kitchen towel and let rest for 10 minutes to allow dough to relax.) One of my ropes was a bit larger than the others which I think is what made my final loaf a little odd looking. If you can, weigh the dough thirds to ensure equal size.



Arrange ropes side by side lengthwise on prepared sheet. Pinch top ends together. Braid dough. Pinch bottom ends together to secure (braided loaf will be about 12 inches long). Loosely cover with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm, draft-free area until puffed but not doubled in size, 45–50 minutes.



Arrange a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 375 degrees F. Whisk remaining egg with 2 tsp. warm water in a small bowl. Brush dough all over with egg wash and add sprinkles if desired.





Bake until bread is golden and an instant-read thermometer inserted into center of loaf registers 190°, 20–25 minutes, which I rarely do. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store leftovers in an airtight container and make wonderful french toast with it the next morning.